While self-sufficiency encompasses various pursuits, some individuals prioritize cultivating their own sustenance, while others focus on crafting wooden items or shaping metal into desired forms. Meanwhile, there are those who dedicate themselves to spinning, weaving, and dyeing fibers using botanical dyes, a tradition that has been passed down through generations.
The allure of natural pigments and fixatives lies in their ability to create a diverse palette of colors without relying on modern, synthetic colorings. These plant-based hues have been employed for centuries, offering a range of possibilities that can evoke the subtle nuances of our ancestors’ craftsmanship.
The Basics of Natural Dyeing
When it comes to adding color to fiber, two essential components are required: the dye itself and the mordant. In its most fundamental sense, the dye provides the desired hue, while the mordant serves as a ‘fixative’, ensuring that the colour remains embedded within the fabric.
Some common chemical mordants include:
Aluminum sulphate, iron(II) sulphate, and copper(II) sulphate can be sourced online or at local pharmacies, while chrome oxides should only be handled with caution due to its toxicity. If you decide to use it, ensure proper ventilation and prevent any accidental contamination of water sources. Household ammonia is readily available in the cleaning supplies section of supermarkets, but exercise extreme care when combining it with bleach, as this mixture can produce toxic fumes.
Baking soda, an alkaline powder free from toxicity concerns, can be found almost anywhere. On the other hand, cream of tartar, a powdery acid derived from winemaking, is a more rare and potentially harder to find resource. If you prefer to take a natural approach with plant-based dyes, there are also all-organic mordant options available, allowing for an even greater degree of self-sufficiency.
Natural Mordants:
When it comes to creating natural dyes, having the right mordant is crucial. Some popular options include simmering sumac twigs for about an hour, straining out the twiggy bits, and reducing the liquid by half, as well as using aged human urine, standard table salt, or Kosher salt. On the other hand, wood ash lye can also be used to create a mordant. It’s worth noting that some of these options are alkaline, while others are acidic.
Alkaline mordants tend to work best with plant-based fibers like cotton, linen, and hemp, whereas acidic mordants like vinegar are better suited for animal fibers like wool, alpaca, and angora. If you find that your colors still run after using an acidic mordant, you can try setting the color by dipping the fabric in a 50/50 vinegar/water solution. Conversely, if you’ve used an alkaline mordant like lye or baking soda, an acidic solution will strip the color rather than setting it.
To ensure your dyeing process is safe and effective, make sure to use separate pots and utensils for dyeing that aren’t also used for cooking. Additionally, try to dye outside whenever possible to avoid circulating toxic fumes through your home. It’s also important to keep in mind that different fibers absorb dye differently. You may want to experiment with a variety of plant and animal fibers to see what unique results you can achieve.
And if you’re looking for a fun project to do with the kids, many of these natural dyes can be used to decorate Easter eggs – just remember to use non-toxic mordants like baking soda and vinegar if you plan to eat the eggs later.
Wild Dye Plants
Unlock the vibrant hues of nature by incorporating foraged finds into your creative pursuits. Chances are, you already possess a treasure trove of colorful possibilities growing right outside your door, just waiting to be discovered.
Goldenrod (Solidago spp.)
When it comes to extracting colors from goldenrod, the key lies in experimenting with different combinations of plant parts and mordants. For instance, blending immature and mature flowers with a tin-based mordant yields a vibrant, intense golden yellow hue. On the other hand, using copper and iron mordants in conjunction with the plant’s leaves and stems can produce an incredible olive green. The possibilities are endless, making goldenrod a versatile and exciting natural dye to work with.
Blueberries (Vaccinium spp.)
Blueberry plants can produce a surprising array of hues depending on the mordants used. One approach is to add an acidic mordant like vinegar or cream of tartar to a dye bath made from blueberry juice, which will result in a soft pink tone. On the other hand, incorporating an alkaline substance such as baking soda into the dye bath will yield a muted green hue.
For a more dramatic effect, combining alum with iron and blueberries on wool can produce a rich lilac colour, whereas using only alum results in a mauve shade.
Elderberries (Sambucus canadensis)
For those seeking a truly stunning cool pink shade, harvesting elderberries during the autumn season is a must. To achieve this unique color, begin by pre-mordanting pale wool with alum, followed by a thorough bath in elderberry juice treated with salt as the mordant.
Chicory (Cichorium intybus)
Unlocking the hidden potential of coffee substitutes, it’s surprising to note that the same roots used to create a caramel-like brew can also be transformed into a beautiful light brown dye. To achieve this, simply chop the fresh roots finely and simmer them in water for at least an hour. Once you’ve strained the mixture, add alum as a mordant and combine with animal-based pale fibers for the most striking results.
For an added depth of color, iron can be introduced to further enhance the brown hue.
Dandelions (Taraxacum spp.)
Dandelions are not only a tasty treat from root to tip, but their various parts also yield distinct dye hues when used as natural pigments. The roots, in particular, exhibit a range of colors depending on the mordant used. With copper or blue vitriol, they produce a gray-green hue, while vinegar and salt result in a warm tan tone. For a bright golden color, tin is the way to go.
On the other hand, the leaves and stems can be used to create chartreuse shades with tin or greenish-yellow tones with alum. Meanwhile, the blossoms have the potential to produce vibrant gold hues when paired with tin or medium yellow tones when combined with alum.
Staghorn Sumac (Rhus typhina)
The same fuzzy sumac flowers that yield a sublime pseudo lemonade in autumn also possess remarkable dyeing properties. When used to colour unmordanted cotton or linen, they produce a stunning deep burgundy red hue. However, this natural dye may not be as colour-fast as others that employ fixatives, rendering it more suitable for items with low washing frequency, such as quilts.
For those who prefer a deeper, more vibrant shade, consider incorporating a water wash and re-dyeing the item periodically to maintain its rich colour.
Curly Dock (Rumex crispus)
To achieve a stunning deep grey-green color, combine fresh green leaves with iron and copper/blue vitriol. If you’d prefer a more subtle look, simply pair the roots with vinegar as a mordant, resulting in a soft, pale tan tone.
Horsetail (Equisetum arvense)
Horsetail is renowned for its extraordinary ability to produce an array of vibrant, long-lasting colours. This natural wonder makes it a top choice among foragers seeking exceptional dye plants. When combined with tin as a mordant, the plant’s soft, feathery fronds yield a radiant yellow hue. For a softer, more muted green tone, alum and copper can be used in combination.
Interestingly, when paired with just alum, horsetail produces a light green shade, while iron brings about a charming gray-green colour. Feel free to experiment and discover the unique shades you can create!
Maple (Acer spp.)
While maple leaves may boast stunning red and gold hues in autumn, their color doesn’t translate well into dye baths. In reality, it’s the bark that holds the key to warm, earthy tones. For a natural dye bath, harvest a small amount of bark from a recently felled tree or collect twigs to use. Allow these to simmer for about an hour before adding alum as a mordant to achieve a rich reddish-tan hue.
Coltsfoot (Tussilago farfara)
For those seeking an refined grey hue, consider combining coltsfoot leaves with copper as a mordant. This blend is sure to produce an understated yet sophisticated shade. On the other hand, should you desire a bright and cheerful light yellow dye, simply mix the flowers of coltsfoot with alum for a vibrant and alluring result.
Cultivated Dye Plants
While it’s possible to forage for plants to create natural dyes, there are also alternatives that don’t require venturing into the great outdoors. In fact, you can grow your own dye plants or simply head to a local market, which can be especially convenient during the winter months when other sources of color may be scarce.
Red Cabbage (Brassica oleracea var. capitata f. rubra)
The humble cabbage, when combined with ingredients like apples, onions, and cloves, can produce a stunning spectrum of colors. This plant-based dye is unique in its sensitivity to pH levels, resulting in distinct shades depending on the mordant used. For instance, red cabbage dye alone yields a deep purple hue. However, by introducing an alkaline substance like baking soda as the mordant, the color transforms into a vibrant robin’s egg blue.
Conversely, when vinegar is used as the acidic mordant, the resulting shade takes on a magenta tone.
Marigold (Tagetes spp.)
The idea of radiant marigold blooms yielding a dark brown dye might seem counterintuitive at first. However, when paired with an iron mordant, this unexpected outcome is precisely what occurs. The resulting color will be a warm, rich shade reminiscent of chocolate and walnuts. Interestingly, this brown hue complements the golden tone that can be achieved by using alum as a mordant, creating a harmonious palette perfect for various natural dyeing projects.
Yellow Onions (Allium cepa)
Yellow onions are renowned for their versatility in producing a range of colours when paired with different mordants. Like goldenrod, they can yield vibrant orange tones when combined with tin, while a stunning rust hue is achieved by using chrome as the mordant. For a more subtle look, copper can be employed to produce khaki green, and a combination of chrome and tin results in a deep chocolate brown, ideal for creating unique shades.
Hollyhocks (Althaea rosaea)
When it comes to achieving unique hues in natural dyeing, the combination of hollyhocks and alum can produce a remarkable pale purple color reminiscent of lilac. This result is further enhanced by introducing tin into the equation, which transforms the shade into a richer blue tone. The synergistic effects of these mordants showcase the versatility of hollyhocks as a natural dyeing material.
Tobacco (Nicotiana tabacum)
When cultivating tobacco for smoking purposes, consider harnessing the potential of its fresh leaves to produce a striking deep green dye. Burley tobacco is particularly renowned for yielding vibrant hues, which can be significantly enhanced through the addition of copper sulfate or blue vitriol. This resulting dye will exhibit exceptional intensity when applied to lighter-colored wool and other animal fibers, whereas plant-based materials may not receive the same level of saturation.
Spinach (Spinacea oleracea)
For those seeking a more subtle, chartreuse-inspired shade, spinach is an unexpected yet effective option. While typically associated with salads rather than natural dyes, spinach produces a striking yellow-green hue when combined with alum or tin. To deepen and enrich this color, simply add iron to the mixture. An added touch of creativity can be achieved by incorporating grass clippings or kale into the dye bath, allowing for an even more intense green tone.
Beets (Beta vulgaris)
To create a soft pink hue, combine chopped beets with water in a pot and simmer the mixture for several hours. Use alum as a mordant, with a recommended ratio of 1 cup of alum to every 4 pounds of beets. Alternatively, you can utilize the leftover juice from pickled beets by heating it gently with some grated fresh beetroot. Let this mixture warm for about half an hour before straining it thoroughly. Immerse your fibers into this dye bath and allow them to steep for several hours before rinsing.
Keep in mind that pale animal fibers tend to take on the color better than plant-based ones.
Radishes (Raphanus spp.)
A delightful surprise awaits when you discover the dual talents of radish tops. Not only do they tantalize your taste buds, but they also possess the remarkable ability to yield vibrant dyes. With the right mordant or fixative, these versatile greens can produce a stunning medium green hue with iron, or a light-to-medium yellow tone using a combination of alum and tin.
Sunflowers (Helianthus spp.)
The radiant golden petals of sunflowers hold a secret: when used with a mordant like chrome, they yield a stunning golden hue that’s perfect for natural dyeing. But did you know that you can also create a beautiful bronze shade by substituting copper/blue vitriol as the mordant? The resulting dye is remarkably color-fast on all fibers, although it tends to be even more vibrant when applied to wool rather than cotton or linen.
Delphiniums (Delphinium spp.)
Creating a true blue hue with natural plant dyes can be a challenging task. While indigo and woad are popular options, they often require significant effort and the use of toxic chemicals. Fortunately, a beautiful pale sky blue can be achieved using blue delphinium/larkspur flowers in combination with a copper mordant. This technique offers a more sustainable alternative to traditional methods.
In addition, pre-mordanting all natural fibers is recommended as it enhances the dye’s ability to penetrate the fabric, resulting in colors that remain vibrant over time rather than fading quickly.
