When it comes to the humble apple, many of us are delighted by its abundance in our home orchards. With minimal effort required for growth and a wide range of varieties to choose from, apples can be a true delight. However, as with any fruitful endeavour, there’s always a chance that pests or diseases may threaten your harvest. As someone who prioritizes the health of my trees over blemish-free fruit, I’ve learned to coexist with imperfections.
That being said, if you’re striving for perfection, neither approach is inherently right or wrong. Our goal here is to equip you with the knowledge and confidence to tackle any apple-growing challenges that come your way. So sit back, relax, and let’s take a closer look at the world of apples.
Rough, Raised Blemishes on the Skin Fruit
On the surface of some apples, small, golden or brown bumps may be noticed, resembling tiny pieces of cork. These harmless blemishes are a result of the apple capsid bug (Plesiocoris rugicollis) laying eggs on the tree’s bark. As the eggs hatch, adults emerge approximately two months later, characterized by their green or brown color and quarter-inch length. Once mature, these adults feed on sap, causing foliage distortion. In most cases, the larvae target fruitless apples.
The corky blemishes do not compromise the apple’s edibility, so while it is an issue, it is not a severe problem for apple enthusiasts.
How to Get Rid of Apple Capsid Bug
To maintain a healthy and thriving apple orchard or garden, it’s essential to remove any dead or diseased vegetation and branches during the winter months. Additionally, clear any fallen leaves from the surrounding area to create an inviting environment for birds and hedgehogs. By doing so, you’ll not only be supporting local wildlife but also encouraging beneficial insects like ground beetles, which prey on pests like capsid eggs and bugs.
To further discourage these unwanted visitors, make a conscious effort to keep your garden weed-free, denying them a place to hide and multiply. If necessary, consider using pyrethrum as a last resort, timing your spray sessions to coincide with the apple tree’s flowering period. This will allow you to cease spraying once pollinators like honey bees are actively visiting the area.
Black-Edged Hole On The Outside of The Apple
The telltale sign of a codling moth infestation is often a small hole with puckered black edges, contrasting sharply with the rest of the apple’s appearance. This pest, Cydia pomonella, spends its caterpillar stage burrowing into the apple’s core, filling the tunnel with frothy excrement as it goes. Once done, they leave the fruit to rot, rendering over 90% of your harvest unusable.
While you can salvage the dead parts or feed them to livestock, the thought of homemade apple pies is likely a distant memory.
Upon cutting open an affected apple, you’ll typically find a black, messy tunnel stretching from skin to core. These pesky critters spend around three weeks inside the apple before emerging to pupate or overwinter, depending on the time of year. In certain US regions, this moth is one of the most prevalent apple afflictions.
How to Get Rid of Codling Moths
When it comes to codling moths, prevention is key. These pests often hide in loose bark, leaves, and weeds around the trees, as well as any other nook or cranny they can find. To prevent infestations, make sure to remove these hiding spots as best you can. To keep your orchard weed-free and clutter-free, give the tree trunk a gentle scrub with a stiff brush to remove any loose flaps of bark. Be careful not to be too aggressive, though.
If you notice apples with frass-filled holes or dropped fruit, it’s essential to remove them immediately. This will help prevent the moths from continuing to breed and lay eggs. One of the most effective non-chemical methods for controlling codling moths is bagging each apple individually. This will prevent the moths from getting to the apples in the first place. While this method can be time-consuming, it’s highly effective and will help reduce the number of moths in your orchard.
Another option is to use codling moth pheromone traps. These traps are designed to attract and trap male moths, reducing their ability to reproduce. By placing one trap for every three trees within a 50-foot radius, you can get an idea of when these moths start hanging out in your orchard. If you capture more than 15 moths over a two-week period, it may be necessary to use additional methods like trunk banding and spraying an insecticide.
When it comes to applying insecticides, it’s crucial to do so before the larvae dig into the apple. Typically, this means spraying about a month after the blossoms emerge. CYD-X is a highly effective and organic option that should be applied weekly starting a month after blooming. Spinosad is another effective option, although it may be slightly more damaging to fauna than CYD-X. Still, it’s far better than some other options like carbaryl, which can harm beneficial insects.
Ripe Apples Have a Scar Across The Skin
If you notice an elongated, yellowish mark on the surface of an apple, accompanied by one or more darkened cavities, it’s likely that your fruit is infested with apple sawflies (Hoplocampa testudinea). As the apple matures, female flies lay eggs within the core, which later hatch and burrow through the fruit. In autumn, these larvae exit the apple, creating a visible scar at the stem end as they make their way into the soil to overwinter.
How to Get Rid of Apple Sawflies
When apples fall prematurely from the tree, it’s crucial to dispose of them promptly to prevent the spread of potential infections. During May and June, be on the lookout for telltale signs like holes or cracks, which can indicate an infestation. The ‘June drop’ is a notable occurrence where many apple trees naturally drop excess fruit around this time. To stay ahead of the problem, consider investing in apple sawfly traps to monitor moth activity and gauge the severity of the issue.
Additionally, apply grease bands to the tree trunk to deter insects from climbing up and remove any infected apples to prevent the spread of disease. If you notice a significant increase in moths caught in your traps, consider using a pyrethrum-based spray as part of your integrated pest management strategy.
Misshapen Fruit with Insect Holes
Another early-season pest that can’t be ignored is the plum curculio (Conotrachelus nenuphar), a type of weevil that targets the flowers, buds, and young fruit. Adult females are particularly destructive, as they lay eggs directly into the fruit after cutting it open. The resulting larvae then feed on the affected areas before emerging when they reach maturity.
While the damage these weevils inflict isn’t typically severe enough to kill the fruit outright, it can lead to deformed apples with noticeable blemishes.
How to Get Rid of Plum Curculio
When dealing with a small-scale infestation of curculio beetles, one effective method is to create a makeshift collection station outside. Simply lay down a sheet of paper or tarp and gently shake your trees to dislodge any affected fruit. The beetles will fall to the ground, allowing you to dispose of them easily. Additionally, make it a habit to clear up fallen fruit in the autumn and till the soil beneath the tree in the spring to uncover any larvae that may be present.
By taking these proactive steps, you should be able to effectively manage the issue without needing more drastic measures.
However, if your infestation is more severe or persistent, consider using a product containing Beauveria bassiana or pyrethrin early in the spring and again after flowering. These natural pesticides can help control the population and prevent further damage.
Curled Leaves and Stunted Fruit
When inspecting your fruit trees, you may stumble upon abnormal growths such as incompletely formed bases on the fruit accompanied by curled leaves. This could be an indication of an infestation by rosy apple aphids. The damage is often irreversible once the aphids have fed on the new spring fruit. In this case, it’s essential to take prompt action by spraying insecticidal soap to prevent further infestation. A closer inspection of the curled leaves may reveal adult aphids clustering together.
These adults typically exhibit a light purple hue and are covered in a thin waxy coating.
How to Get Rid of Rosy Apple Aphids
When managing rosy apple aphid populations, it’s essential to consider their alternative hosts – plantain and ribgrass. To minimize the risk of infestation, eliminate these plants from the area surrounding your apple trees. While this approach may require some effort, it’s a crucial step in maintaining a balanced ecosystem. In contrast, natural predators like ladybugs, lacewings, and soldier beetles can be a valuable asset in controlling aphid populations.
As such, spraying pesticides should be a last resort, as these chemicals often harm or eliminate the very same predators that help keep aphids under control.
Sticky Black Spots on Distorted Leaves
Take a closer look at the underside of those distorted leaves and you’ll likely spot black, sticky patches. This is telltale evidence of aphid damage, a widespread issue for apple growers. You may even catch sight of the pesky insects themselves, congregating in large numbers around these areas. If you’re looking to learn more about identifying and eradicating these garden pests, we’ve got an informative article on the topic that’s just a click away.
White Fluffy Areas on Branches
A telltale sign of woolly aphids is their unique overwintering and feeding habits. They typically spend the winter months on one plant species, only to emerge in spring to feed on another, such as apple trees. One of the most distinctive characteristics of these sap-sucking pests is their tendency to congregate and leave behind a sticky, waxy residue on branches and stems. Measuring around a quarter inch in length, woolly aphids display a fuzzy appearance due to their wooly surface.
Their blue or green coloration adds an extra layer of identification. Some common signs that woolly aphids are present include curled leaves, stunted growth, cankers, or galls on the limbs, as well as yellowing foliage. These subtle yet telling indications can help homeowners and gardeners detect these unwanted visitors and take corrective action.
How to Get Rid of Wooly Aphids
While woolly aphid infestations typically don’t pose a significant threat to trees, it’s still crucial to address severe cases. To tackle these issues, you can begin by spot-treating the most heavily impacted areas with insecticidal soap. This should be followed up with regular sprays of organic neem oil to help control the infestation and prevent further damage.
Brown Spot That Starts at The Bottom of The Apple and Grows to Cover It
At its onset, the apple problem manifests as a small brown spot on the fruit’s bottom, gradually spreading and compromising the entire apple. As decay sets in, any part of the apple bearing the brown spot begins to break down. This affliction is known as black rot. The initial warning signs often manifest as yellow spots on leaves, referred to as frog eye leaf spots. In extreme cases, black rot can extend its influence to affect branches.
How to Get Rid of Black Rot
When dealing with a diseased tree, it’s crucial to take immediate action to prevent the spread of infection. Start by thoroughly removing and disposing of any affected fruit, foliage, or limbs that have been compromised. Next, focus on pruning out any infected areas of the tree as soon as possible. This prompt intervention will help contain the problem and protect the overall health of your tree.
Black Circular Lesions on The Fruit
Apple scab, a fungal disease, is a significant concern for apple trees. One of its most worrying aspects is the potential for black rot to develop from the lesions it creates. Initially, sooty lesions emerge on the undersides of leaves in early spring, causing them to curl up and eventually fall from the tree. The fruit is also affected, developing crusty scabs on its skin that can compromise its quality.
How to Get Rid of Apple Scab
Typically, when dealing with apple scab, you can simply remove the affected skin and proceed to enjoy your apple as usual. The issue is confined to the skin only, making it a relatively minor concern. If you’re looking for resistant varieties, consult with your local extension office to determine which ones thrive in your specific region. It’s also essential to take proactive measures if your apple tree contracts this fungal disease.
Start by thoroughly removing any fallen leaves and branches that may have been affected. This is crucial, as poor orchard or garden hygiene can contribute to the spread of the disease.
Dead Patches Around Wounds on the Trunk
Apple canker, a prevalent issue in apple cultivation, is caused by fungal infection. This disease often proves fatal for the affected branch, manifesting as a sunken area of dead bark. The formation of a canker typically occurs in the spring. Interestingly, trees with robust health are less prone to developing this problem.
How to Get Rid of Apple Canker
When dealing with infected areas of your trees, the most effective approach is to remove them promptly. This is particularly crucial in soil conditions that are heavy and wet, as these environments can foster the growth of canker. If the affected branches are small, it’s best to cut them off entirely. For larger limbs, you should aim to remove as much of the infected tissue as possible before applying a wound paint to help protect the tree.
It’s also important to be mindful of your fertilization practices, as canker thrives in environments with high levels of nitrogen and humidity. To mitigate this risk, consider applying nitrogen-rich fertilizers in the spring, when the tree is less susceptible to damage.
Individual Branches Die Back and Turn Black
Fire blight, a notorious disease affecting trees, is characterized by the unique symptom of individual branches turning brown or black amidst healthy green foliage. This anomaly sets it apart from other tree maladies.
How to Deal With Fireblight
When tackling the issue of fungal diseases affecting your apple trees, it’s crucial to take a proactive approach. Start by avoiding the use of fertilizers that are heavy in nitrogen, as this can actually exacerbate the problem. Instead, focus on pruning any infected branches away from the tree. Make sure to cut the branch at least 12 inches from the point of infection and dispose of the removed material by burning it. This will help prevent the spread of disease.
It’s also important to avoid pruning your apple trees when they are in blossom, unless you’re only removing infected branches. If you do need to prune during this time, be sure to take extra precautions to minimize damage to the tree. If you’re still struggling to get control over the problem, consider using a copper-based fungicide as a last resort.
Yellow Spots on Leaves in Early Spring
As the seasons transition from early spring to mid-summer, a telltale sign of apple health can emerge: yellow spots, sometimes accompanied by cream-colored flecks. Unfortunately, this visual cue is often a harbinger of trouble, as apple mosaic virus begins to take its toll on the leaves, ultimately leading to a reduced harvest. Notably, certain popular apple varieties like ‘Granny Smith’ and ‘Golden Delicious’ are particularly vulnerable to this affliction.
How to Deal With Apple Mosaic Virus
While it’s tempting to think there might be a way to salvage the affected trees, unfortunately, removal is often the best course of action to prevent the disease from spreading further. In some cases, pruning away infected branches and leaves may seem like a viable option, but it’s essential to understand that this approach won’t eradicate the issue entirely due to the systemic nature of the disease.
The most effective way forward is to prioritize tree removal and take necessary precautions to minimize the risk of transmission to other trees in the area.
