Among the many vegetables worth growing, romanesco stands out for its striking fractal form and distinct flavor profile. If you’re seeking a departure from the usual broccoli or cauliflower, this plant is an excellent choice. Its earthy, nutty taste sets it apart from its visually similar cousins, making it a standout at the market despite being potentially harder to find and pricier than some other options.
What is Romanesco?
Romanesco, often referred to as Roman cauliflower, Roman broccoli, or fractal broccoli, belongs to the brassica genus and is scientifically known as Brassica oleracea var. botrytis ‘Romanesco.’ This Italian-bred vegetable has been cultivated since the 15th century near Rome through selective breeding by local growers.
The edible flower of the plant, harvested for consumption, consists of fractal spirals that repeat, resulting in its distinctive appearance, reminiscent of broccoli and cauliflower. Romanesco not only boasts a unique look but also offers several health benefits. It is rich in vitamin C and K, carotenoids, and fiber, making it a nutritious addition to any meal.
If you’re eager to cultivate this visually stunning and flavorful cool-season crop, let’s begin our journey to grow Romanesco.
Best Varieties of Romanesco
The world of avocados is a diverse one, with several popular varieties to choose from. The differences between them lie in their physical characteristics, such as size, color, and texture, as well as their distinct flavor profiles. For those looking to experience the full range of what avocados have to offer, it’s worth exploring each variety to discover which one becomes a personal favorite.
Veronica
One of the most sought-after varieties is ‘Veronica’ due to its rapid maturation rate and impressive head size. Its abundance and early readiness for harvest allow it to retain a sweet taste and tender flesh, making it an excellent choice for both cooking and raw consumption. The plant itself grows up to 30 inches tall and 18 inches wide, with light green foliage that’s hard to miss.
As you can expect from such a prolific variety, the heads will be substantial, measuring up to seven inches in width and ready for harvest in as little as 80 days.
Natalino
The Natalino variety is an excellent choice for those seeking to harvest baby heads and enjoy them whole. Its unique characteristic extends to its mature state as well, making it a versatile option. This variety boasts a lighter green hue with subtle yellow undertones. One of the notable features of Natalino is its relatively fast maturation period, allowing for harvesting in approximately 90 days – an asset in regions with shorter growing seasons.
Gitano
The ‘Gitano’ variety of lettuce stands out for its unique characteristics, including exceptional resistance to mildew compared to other types. Its adaptability to cooler climates and cold temperatures makes it an ideal choice for gardeners living in regions with a more moderate climate. In terms of appearance, ‘Gitano’ boasts darker green leaves that reach approximately 18 inches in height and spreads out to about 24 inches wide.
The harvest period typically takes around 110 days, with the mature head weighing up to three pounds.
How to Plant Romanesco
Romanesco, a cool-season crop, excels in daytime temperatures ranging from 70ºF to no lower than 40ºF at night. This variety is adaptable and can be found thriving in USDA Zones 3-10. To provide optimal growing conditions, plant Romanesco in loose, well-draining loamy soil that has been enriched with well-rotted organic matter for at least a week prior to planting. A slightly acidic to neutral soil pH of 6.0 to 7.5 is also suitable.
When it comes to light, provide full sun and consider adding afternoon shade if available, although this is not a requirement. For proper growth, space plants approximately 18 inches apart to ensure good airflow between them.
Propagating Romanesco
When it comes to propagating romanesco, you have two primary options. The first method involves starting from seed, which can be a cost-effective approach for those on a budget. Alternatively, you can opt for the more conventional route of planting starts or seedlings, provided you can source them from a local nursery.
Seed
To cultivate romanesco successfully, start by planting seeds indoors about eight weeks prior to the average last frost date in your area. This will allow most of the growing process to occur outdoors after transplanting in late spring or early summer. If you reside in a warm region with mild winters, plant indoors in late summer and transplant outside in mid-to-late fall. There are several compelling reasons to grow multiple romanesco plants. Firstly, they’re a culinary delight.
Secondly, they don’t require extensive space, making them an excellent choice for smaller gardens. Thirdly, romanesco can be a challenging crop to cultivate, so having some extras on hand is always a good idea. To plant seeds, follow these steps:Utilize seedling trays or individual pots with drainage holes. Create a hole 1/4 inch deep and insert two seeds within it. Cover the seeds with a thin layer of soil mix, followed by gentle misting using a spray bottle.
If your container came with a lid, place it on top; otherwise, cover the pot with a plastic bag. Maintain consistent moisture levels for approximately 21 days, during which time you should observe germination. As the green shoots emerge from the soil, remove any covering and relocate the plants to an area that receives direct sunlight. Continue watering them regularly.
Once the seedlings have reached at least four to six inches in height, featuring two leaves each, begin the process of hardening them off. Gradually acclimate the plants to outdoor conditions over a period of one to two weeks by moving them outside for increasingly longer periods. Finally, transplant them into your garden using the method described below when they’re ready.
Starts/Seedlings
When you’re short on time, start by planting starts after the last projected frost. To ensure a successful transplant, begin by digging a hole that matches the container’s size. This will protect the tender roots from damage. Next, carefully remove the seedling and surrounding soil from the container and place it in the newly dug hole. Gently firm down to settle the soil around the roots. For optimal growth, plant seedlings 18 inches apart.
Finally, fill in the hole with garden soil, tamping it down gently as you go. Finish by watering thoroughly.
Caring for Romanesco
As your romanesco plants reach around 10 inches tall, it’s time to give them a boost with a balanced 5-5-5 NPK fertilizer. Following the package instructions, work the fertilizer into the top three inches of soil carefully avoiding any potential root damage. To ensure optimal growth, provide each plant with roughly an inch of water per week. A rain gauge can be set up to monitor precipitation and supplement as needed if necessary.
For added precision, insert your finger into the soil a couple of inches deep. If it’s dry up to your knuckle, watering is in order; if it remains damp, wait another day before rechecking. Consistent moisture is crucial for romanesco’s development, as inconsistent watering can hinder its growth.
Additionally, taking proactive measures to control weeds during this initial stage will help prevent them from competing with the plants for vital nutrients, ultimately promoting healthy head formation and rapid growth.
Companion Planting for Growing Romanesco
When it comes to companion planting with romanesco, some plants thrive in cooler temperatures. Consider pairing your romanesco with yarrow, fennel, artichokes, dill, chard, beets, mint, peas, and potatoes, as these varieties tend to do well in the same conditions. On the other hand, there are certain plants that don’t grow as well when planted near romanesco. These include strawberries, garlic, leeks, radishes, shallots, rutabagas, and tomatoes.
Common Problems and Solutions for Growing Romanesco
Romanesco, like many other varieties of brassicas, is susceptible to a range of pests and issues that can impact its health. This includes everything from common garden woes like aphids, whiteflies, and spider mites, to more serious problems like club root, powdery mildew, and cabbage worms.
Cauliflower Mosaic
Cauliflower mosaic virus spreads primarily through aphid infestations. Unfortunately, there is no known cure for this affliction, leaving plant enthusiasts to focus on pest control measures. To mitigate the effects of cauliflower mosaic, it’s essential to monitor and manage aphid populations using neem oil-based solutions. The telltale signs of infection include yellowing leaf tissues, stunted growth patterns, and translucent veinage – all indicative of this viral scourge.
Fusarium Wilt (Fusarium Yellows)
If you notice your plant exhibiting symptoms such as yellowing leaves that drop off, stunted growth, browning of leaf veins, or drooping lower leaves, it may be suffering from fusarium wilt or yellows. This fungal disease is caused by Fusarium species and can have a significant impact on the health and appearance of your plant. Fortunately, with proper identification and treatment, you can take steps to manage and recover from this issue.
For more information on how to spot and deal with fusarium wilt, read our in-depth article.
Blackleg
Romanesco’s susceptibility to blackleg, a fungal infection that affects its stem and leaves, can be triggered by a combination of wet and windy conditions followed by high heat and humidity. The telltale signs of blackleg include brown lesions with a purple outline and tiny black dots within. Once established on one plant, the fungus can spread rapidly through wind-borne spores, water splash, or contaminated garden tools.
While there is no cure for blackleg, adopting good garden hygiene practices can significantly reduce the risk of infection. This includes maintaining clean tools, rotating crops to break disease cycles, promptly removing infected plants from the property, and thoroughly inspecting seedlings before transplanting.
Furthermore, it’s essential to purchase certified disease-free seeds to avoid introducing blackleg into your garden.
If you’re a potato grower, take extra precautions as blackleg is particularly common in potatoes and the fungus can overwinter in the soil. Use only high-quality, treated, and certified seed potatoes to minimize the risk of infection.
Flea Beetles
As romanesco seedlings and young plants begin to thrive, they become vulnerable to a common pest: flea beetles. These tiny insects typically emerge in mid-to-late spring when temperatures rise. The larvae burrow under the soil, but it’s the adult beetles that cause visible damage by feeding on the foliage, leaving behind small holes. If left unchecked, their numbers can quickly multiply, requiring action to control the population.
A suitable insecticide like organic pyrethrum may be necessary to mitigate the issue. To prevent flea beetle infestations from the start, practice crop rotation and keep your garden tools clean. For more comprehensive guidance on managing these pests, consult our resource on flea beetles.
Diamondback Moths
Diamondback moths are a common garden pest, particularly around brassicas, where they can be found throughout the growing season. The larvae feed on foliage and are considered destructive, making them challenging to control. In warmer regions, they can breed year-round, resulting in up to 15 generations per year. When inspecting for damage, look for caterpillars that consume leaf tissue from the bottom up, leaving veins and upper layers intact.
If you notice this type of damage, be sure to examine the area closely for signs of worm activity. To manage these pests effectively, consider using trap plants like collard greens and leaf mustard, which attract the moths. It’s also crucial to develop a resistance to pesticides by rotating crops and maintaining healthy romanesco growth.
Slugs and Snails
Slugs and snails can be a significant threat to young plants, potentially stunting their growth or even killing them off entirely. One effective method for controlling these pests is to conduct a nightly search with a flashlight, carefully plucking up any offending slugs and dropping them into a soapy water bath. For more comprehensive guidance on how to effectively manage snails and prevent damage to your plants, consider consulting our in-depth guide on the subject.
Cabbage Loopers
In the cabbage family, all plants are vulnerable to an unwelcome visitor: the cabbage looper (Trichoplusia ni). Also known as inchworms due to their unique method of movement, these small insects can be a nuisance in any garden. If you’re struggling with an infestation, consult our comprehensive guide on managing cabbage loopers for effective solutions.
Cabbage Worms
Pieris rapae, commonly known as cabbage worms, are widespread pests that feed on a diverse range of plants beyond just cabbages. You may have already spotted the small white butterflies with distinctive dark spots fluttering around your garden – these are the adult stage. The females will lay eggs that eventually hatch into tiny green larvae, which will voraciously consume your plant.
While natural predators like wasps and lady beetles can help control egg and larval populations, you may need to turn to chemical controls. A suitable alternative is a spray containing Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki, providing a natural solution to manage these pests.
Harvesting Romanesco
When the moment of truth arrives for your romanesco crop, you’ll know it’s time to harvest! The telltale sign is when the heads have reached their full color and the delicate florets are starting to unfurl. Don’t delay, as this fleeting window is when the florets are most susceptible to pests and diseases that can quickly decimate your yield. Once you’ve identified the optimal moment for harvesting, you’re free to get creative with your romanesco.
Like its more familiar cruciferous cousins broccoli and cauliflower, it’s a versatile ingredient that can be steamed, sautéed, boiled, baked, fried, or processed into tasty dishes like rice or pizza crust. Let your culinary imagination run wild and enjoy the fruits of your labor!
