A broody hen’s presence can be viewed as either a hindrance or a valuable asset, depending on your objectives. When a chicken becomes broody, she is driven to sit and hatch eggs, which can impact the availability of eggs for consumption if you don’t plan to raise a new generation of chickens. Conversely, homesteaders seeking to grow a self-sufficient flock may see a broody hen as a blessing in disguise.
My personal experience with broody hens was nothing short of uplifting.
I had previously struggled with raising store-bought chicks indoors, finding it stressful and time-consuming. The constant temperature checks, for instance, were a nuisance. In contrast, when my own broody hen, Anna, took to sitting on a clutch of eggs, I felt a sense of relief.
Anna’s efforts resulted in the hatching of several chicks, including one rooster that my kids affectionately named Peanut. All I had to do was sit back and let nature take its course.
On the flip side, if your broody hen is sitting on unfertilized eggs and you wish her to return to laying, you’ll need to address the issue.
What Does It Mean When a Hen is Broody?
When a hen becomes broody, she’s entered a state of maternal instinct, driven by the desire to hatch her eggs. This natural phenomenon is characterized by an increase in body temperature and a reduction in food and water consumption. It’s not uncommon for many hens to experience this phase, and it’s not necessarily indicative of any underlying issues with your chicken. The only exception would be if you’re intentionally trying to prevent her from incubating eggs.
What Causes Broodiness?
Broodiness in hens is often triggered by a complex interplay of factors, primarily driven by the interaction between hormones and sunlight. One of the primary causes is the maturation process that occurs as hens age, particularly around spring and summer when days grow longer and sunlight intensifies. This increased exposure to sunlight stimulates the release of prolactin, a hormone produced in the pituitary gland of the hen.
As the hormone levels rise, it sets off a chain reaction, ultimately leading to broodiness. In this state, the hen becomes intensely focused on her most recently laid eggs – regardless of their fertilization status – and is driven to sit upon them.
What are the Signs of Broodiness?
If you’ve noticed your hen behaving strangely, she might be broody. Here are some characteristic signs to look out for: She may resist being removed from her nest when there are no eggs present. Even without eggs, she’ll often remain in the nest, refusing to leave. When you approach the nest, she may peck at your hand as if protecting something. Her chest and belly feathers might be missing or appear ruffled. Her combs and wattles could take on a pale or washed-out appearance.
She’ll likely only leave her nest once or twice a day, rushing back to it with urgency. You may notice unusually large and pungent droppings. As if she’s trying to create a cozy atmosphere, she might flatten out in the nest, covering a larger area than usual. Her appetite and thirst could be surprisingly low, and she might ignore food and water. Finally, she may cluck softly to herself while gazing at her imaginary eggs.
The Broodiest Breeds
While any breed of chicken can exhibit broodiness, some strains are more prone to this behavior than others. If you’re looking to establish a consistent flock and have hens that will reliably hatch eggs, consider selecting breeds known for their broodiness. These breeds tend to be excellent mothers to their chicks and will often hatch eggs from other breeds as well.
On the flip side, if you prefer your hens to focus on laying eggs rather than incubation, it’s best to steer clear of the more broody breeds. They can become quite dedicated to hatching eggs and may abandon egg production altogether in favor of mothering their young.
Some of the most notorious broodiness-prone breeds include Silkies, Australorps, Brahmas, Cochins, Orpingtons, Plymouth Rocks, Sussex, and Wyandottes.
How to Take Care of Broody Hens
Letting Mother Nature take the reins by allowing a broody hen to hatch a clutch of eggs is a straightforward process. However, it’s essential to understand the basics of caring for a broody hen as there are specific steps to follow. One important consideration is the type of eggs she’ll be hatching – she can successfully incubate not just chicken eggs but also those of ducks, turkeys, guineas, and geese.
Nonetheless, it’s crucial to ensure she doesn’t have too many eggs under her wings, as she needs sufficient space to turn them all over comfortably. Smaller breeds typically handle 7-10 eggs, while larger breeds can accommodate 15-20 chicken eggs without issue.
Pick a Safe Spot
It’s not uncommon for a broody hen to claim her favorite nesting box as her own, much like mine did when I first opened our coop and found a line of hens waiting patiently for their turn. As an owner, you have the option to let your hen sit it out in her chosen spot or move her to a separate area. Each approach has its pros and cons.
Before making a decision, ensure that your hen’s nesting box is as comfortable as possible, considering she’ll be spending the next three weeks sitting on those eggs. Adequate nesting material is crucial for preventing egg breakage, so make sure you provide enough cushioning. You can also add some calming herbs like lavender, mint, rosemary, and thyme to help soothe your hen and deter parasites.
If you decide to move your hen, the benefits include allowing her to rest away from the other hens, making it easier to track her eggs, and preventing others from getting into her nest. However, this approach requires providing separate food and water, which can be a challenge. Additionally, she might refuse to settle in the new area or even break out of her broodiness. On the other hand, leaving your hen in place is less stressful and allows her to interact with the flock.
You won’t need to provide separate amenities, but there’s a risk that other hens might add more eggs under hers, leading to issues with sporadic hatching or even egg breakage. Moreover, she may stop other chickens from laying eggs. If you do decide to move your hen, make sure to prepare the new nesting area beforehand by adding a new clutch of eggs and ensuring it’s ready for her arrival.
When transferring her, be prepared for her to peck and bite; hold her wings against her body and place her in the new area near but not on top of her eggs. She might initially refuse to settle or accept the new nest. If you choose to leave your hen in the original nesting box, ensure it’s large enough for her clutch of eggs and allows her to move around comfortably. The box should be at least one-foot square to accommodate her needs.
Place her food and water in front of the nesting box to keep her happy and healthy.
Mark the Eggs
When it comes to marking eggs for a broody hen, I find that using a marker or pen with the date you set them under her is incredibly helpful. This is especially true when leaving her in the coop, as it’s easy to lose track of time – and remember, it takes around 21 days for eggs to hatch. By keeping track of the eggs, you’ll also be able to identify if she’s inherited any additional ones.
Of course, a broody hen won’t get very far in her journey without fertile eggs to set on.
If you have an actively breeding rooster for every 8-12 hens in your flock, you should have fertile eggs from your own hens. For those who don’t have their own fertile eggs, finding local farmers with a ‘barnyard mix’ or purebred hatching eggs can be a good option.
Another way to find fertile hatching eggs is online. You can find breeders all over the country selling these eggs.
Just keep in mind that purchasing eggs online can be expensive and fragile during transit, so make sure you’re putting them under a very trustworthy and gentle hen – especially if it’s your first-time mother hen.
As for what happens when you put eggs of a different species under your broody hen, it largely depends on her temperament. Sometimes, a hen can do a great job mothering ducklings or other non-chicken birds, albeit slightly perplexed by their water-loving habits.
Other times, she might become confused and even injure the young in her frustration.
When mixing different bird species, just keep a close eye on the interaction to ensure nothing goes awry.
Hen Commitment
While it’s common for a broody hen to abandon her incubation period at any time, don’t assume she’ll stick with it until the end. A more reliable approach is to first let her sit on fake eggs for 3-5 days, which will gauge her commitment before introducing real eggs. On the flip side, some hens may surprisingly give up as early as day 15, leaving viable eggs that require an incubator to complete development without which they’ll perish.
For novice mothers, this unpredictability is particularly common. Once a hen has successfully raised a few clutches, however, you can generally rely on her to see her eggs through.
Self-Care for Broody Mother Hen
When caring for a broody hen, it’s crucial to prioritize her health alongside nurturing her growing embryos. It’s easy for hens to neglect their own well-being while dedicatedly sitting on eggs, but it’s vital to ensure they’re not literally starving themselves to death. Regular breaks from the nest are essential, so make sure your hen is getting off the nest at least once or twice a day.
If she’s not interested in leaving, gently remove her and provide access to food, water, and perhaps even a quick dust bath. It’s also perfectly fine to spoil your hen with special treats like mealworms, plain oatmeal, watermelon, or pumpkin during her extended nesting period. Additionally, broody hens are more prone to mites and lice infestations while on the nest. Regularly inspect your hen and promptly treat any parasites you find.
It’s crucial to address these issues as an infested hen can pass parasites to her newly hatched chicks, putting them at risk of fatal harm in their vulnerable state.
Candling Eggs
As chicken keepers incubate their own eggs, a crucial step is often overlooked: egg candling. This process allows you to peek inside the egg to monitor development. While candling isn’t mandatory and can sometimes disturb a mother hen more than it’s worth, I find it useful when checking for signs of life after dark. Using a flashlight, I inspect each egg around day 10 to identify those that are definitely unfertilized.
Even if you choose not to candle your eggs, regular nest checks are essential. Sniff out any foul odors to detect rotten eggs, which can cause catastrophic damage by exploding and ruining an entire clutch. Removing these unwanted eggs is crucial for the health of your flock.
Hatch Day!
As the big day approaches, the anticipation can be overwhelming for both you and your mother hen. Fortunately, she’s likely to remain calm, a stark contrast to your own nervous energy. As hatching time draws near, expect your hen to become increasingly attached to her nest, possibly even neglecting to leave it for 24 hours. It’s not uncommon for her to begin vocalizing to the eggs as well, a sign that little peeps are imminent. By around day 21, you might start to detect faint chirping sounds.
It’s crucial to respect your mother hen and her brood’s personal space, even when you’re itching to get a glimpse of what’s happening under the nest. Keep in mind that it takes two to four days for all eggs in a clutch to hatch, and chicks will typically spend one or two days under their mama’s care before venturing out.
One interesting aspect of hatching is that chicks absorb the yolk into their bodies just before they emerge, allowing them to sustain themselves until they’re ready to leave the nest with their mother. This initial food reserve helps them survive during this crucial period.
After four days have passed, it’s essential to remove any eggs that haven’t yet hatched. These eggs are not viable and should be discarded.
After the Hatch
When the eggs hatch, it’s crucial to house the chicks in a secure enclosure within the run, allowing them to remain visible to the rest of the flock while shielding them from harsh weather conditions and potential aggression. Monitor the mother hen and her brood closely, intervening only if you notice signs of distress or turmoil.
Mother hens are remarkable natural educators, effortlessly taking on responsibility for their young by keeping them warm, teaching vital skills like foraging, eating, and drinking, and guiding them in their early days. To support this process, supply the chicks with nutritious food specifically designed for their stage of development. Meanwhile, ensure your layer hen has access to a balanced diet, as she’ll eventually need to replenish her energy reserves to resume egg-laying.
By providing the necessary tools and environment, you can rely on your mother hen to do most of the work, minimizing your involvement in the process.
Murderous Mothers
When introducing a first-time mother hen to her newly hatched chicks, it’s crucial to monitor her behavior closely. As she settles into her new role, some initial mothers may struggle to accept their young ones, potentially leading to undesirable outcomes. For instance, they might inadvertently harm or even kill their own chicks through excessive pecking.
To avoid such scenarios, keep a watchful eye on your hen for the first 24 hours after hatching to ensure she’s taking to motherhood naturally and without issue.
The Nursery
To guarantee the safety of their new brood, mother hens require a predator-proof enclosure separate from the rest of the flock. A ground-level coop and run setup is ideal for young chicks, eliminating the need for steep ramps that can be challenging for them to navigate. When it’s time to introduce the mama and her chicks to the great outdoors, clean out any remaining eggshells, remove unhatched eggs, and replenish the bedding material.
This initial cleaning process will set a precedent for frequent nest maintenance over the next few weeks, as chick droppings can quickly accumulate and disrupt the peaceful slumber of both mother and young. Regular nesting cleanups will ensure a comfortable and sanitary environment for the entire family.
Health and Care
Freshly hatched chicks, like any newborn animal, are highly susceptible to various threats in their new environment. One crucial aspect of chick care is ensuring the health of these vulnerable birds by vigilantly managing parasites. Coccidiosis is a common affliction affecting young birds that are exposed to overcrowding and unsanitary living conditions. To promote the overall well-being and robustness of your young fowl, it’s essential to maintain clean and hygienic environments.
Seeing Your Chicks Grow Up
Socializing Chicks
To foster friendly chickens, it’s essential to invest extra effort into socializing your chicks from an early age. When mother hens raise their broods without human interaction, the resulting adult birds may be hesitant to engage with people. By devoting quality time in the presence of your mother hen and providing a steady supply of treats, you can encourage your growing flock to become comfortable around humans.
Re-integration
As the mother hen and her chicks near four to five weeks of age, it’s possible to reintroduce them to the main flock, provided the existing birds are calm and laid-back. This is crucial for a harmonious integration. Once the mother hen has weaned her young and begins laying eggs again around six weeks post-hatch, it’s time to rehome the chicks with the main flock, allowing you to focus on their growth.
When the time comes to introduce these new birds to the flock, consider doing so at dusk, when aggression tends to be reduced. Keep a watchful eye on the newcomers for several days to ensure a smooth transition. The joys of watching a broody hen raise her chicks are undeniable, and the added benefit of minimizing your involvement in the process makes it even more appealing.
How to “Break” Broody Hens
When it comes to keeping chickens and eggs for consumption only, a broody hen can be quite the challenge. To ensure your hens remain healthy and continue laying eggs at a consistent pace, it’s often necessary to intervene and break her of this habit. In the absence of a rooster, unfertilized eggs will never hatch into chicks, making it crucial to redirect her attention away from incubation.
Broodiness can be detrimental to a hen’s overall well-being, causing her to neglect her own needs – including eating, drinking, and pooping. If left unchecked, extreme cases of broodiness can even lead to starvation. By understanding the importance of breaking a broody hen, you’ll be better equipped to provide the necessary care and attention your flock requires.
Remove the Eggs
When collecting eggs from your backyard flock, it’s crucial to handle the hens gently yet firmly. As you lift them off the nest, be prepared for a potential commotion. Due to their natural instinct to guard their young, hens can become quite defensive when their eggs are disturbed. So, to avoid any unnecessary stress or squawking, ensure you’re swift and confident in your handling of these feisty ladies.
Keeping Moving Her
As you go about your daily routine, make it a point to frequently relocate your young hen to the opposite end of the run, using tasty treats as a distraction. The more times you do this, the better. As night falls, remove her from the nest and place her on the roosting bar. Since chickens’ vision is impaired in low light conditions, she’ll be less likely to attempt to return to the nest, making it easier for her to settle down for the evening.
Get Rid of Her Nesting Area
To discourage your broody hen from returning to her chosen nesting area, consider two effective strategies: blacking out the space or removing all the nesting material. Many hens develop a strong affinity for a specific nest, so by moving it or rendering it unusable, you can persuade her to abandon her plans and start anew.
Separate Her
When dealing with a broody chicken, it’s often necessary to isolate her from the rest of the flock. A compact, portable enclosure or crate can help achieve this by removing her access to nesting boxes and eggs, which can aid in breaking the broodiness cycle. If feasible, consider housing her in a wire-bottomed cage with ample airflow. This setup can provide a cooling effect on her underside, potentially discouraging the broody behavior.
The duration of her isolation will depend on the depth of her determination to remain broody. It’s crucial to regularly check on her and, if necessary, return her to the main coop. If she reverts back to nesting box behavior, it’s likely she’ll need further isolation.
Frozen Water Bottle and Cold Dips in Water
When dealing with a stubborn broody hen, a clever trick involves placing a cold or frozen water bottle under her while she’s engaged in her sitting ritual. This sudden chill can prompt a break from her broodiness. If you don’t have access to a frozen water bottle, an alternative approach is to gently dip the underside of her vent area into cold water. Keep in mind that broody hens typically generate significant heat to incubate their eggs, so her bottom end will be relatively warm.
The idea behind this technique is that the sudden change in temperature can cause her to abandon her nesting behavior.
When to Embrace the Broodiness
Having a self-sustaining flock relies heavily on the ability of hens to exhibit broodiness. This trait is crucial for chicken owners who want to raise their own chicks without relying on external sources. A broody hen is a valuable asset that can provide a steady supply of new layers, allowing you to maintain a healthy and thriving flock.
While it’s essential to appreciate the benefits of having a broody hen, it’s equally important to ensure your hen’s overall health.
Monitor her eating and drinking habits closely, as broodiness can lead to weight loss. Maintaining a balanced flock is paramount, alongside achieving an abundance of eggs for consumption.
